Vienna, City of My Dreams

We had our final breakfast at the hotel and then Michael dragged me kicking and screaming to the station.  I really did not want to leave our luxurious surroundings and could have quite happily stayed however all good things must come to an end otherwise how else would we appreciate them?  We had a little bit of drama when we arrived at the station, as none of us could see designated seat numbers on our tickets.  We showed them to the train guard and he informed us that we did not have reserved seats and that we would just have to find unallocated seats somewhere.  We proceeded to drag our suitcases through the long carriages until we came to the last carriage where there was one, lonely vacant seat.  The prospect of standing for three hours loomed and Michael kept searching the tickets, certain that he had booked reserved seats.  Finally he located what appeared to be seat numbers on the tickets and so we set off to find our seats, luggage in tow, pushing through the crowded train.  We found our seats in the carriage furthest from the end and were pretty much exhausted by that stage.  At least the rest of the journey was uneventful and we arrived in Vienna to find our hotel opposite the station. 

The rest of the day was spent walking around the city, enjoying the Christmas lights and markets.  Amber found a lovely, historic Viennese inn for our evening meal – Griechenbeisl.  This wonderful, old building has been an inn since 1447 and many famous people throughout history have dined there including Beethoven, Mozart, Mark Twain and many others.  Inside was a rabbit warren of rooms with a pianist playing on pianos in the different rooms throughout the evening.  The menu was full of traditional Viennese dishes and we all enjoyed our meals.

The next morning, we took a walk through the Belvedere gardens, which were looking a little bare as the grand fountains had all been drained and switched off for the winter.  We had breakfast at Café Mozart, a lovely coffee house, which opened in 1899 and where Graham Greene wrote The Third Man.  It was cakes all round, as what else would you have for breakfast in Vienna?  We did a little bit more walking after breakfast until we arrived at Michael’s favourite restaurant in Vienna, Café Diglas, where he ordered his Scheiterhaufen. 


We were seated at the window of the café, and children kept pressing their noses against the glass to look at Michael’s enormous cake.  I don’t think that they could quite believe their eyes!

A much longer walk was needed after our second café visit of the day, so James led us over to the Prater, a large public park.  In the middle of this huge park is the Wurstelprater amusement park, which is the oldest amusement park in the world.  One imagines that in the summertime, the whole park would be packed with people, young and old, enjoying all that the park has to offer.  There were no crowds when we were there though and we found a restaurant for a very light lunch before returning to the city centre and visiting some more Christmas markets.  Unfortunately Amber was unwell, so she had an early night while James, Michael and I dined at a nearby Czech restaurant.

Amber was still under the weather the next morning, so the remaining three of us took a walk around the museum district and markets once more.  We took a look at the Sigmund Freud Museum, which is housed in the building where Freud and his family lived.  The rooms, which include his former practice and private area, are full of displays about his life in Vienna and his works, featuring many photographs, paintings and sculptures.  It was all very interesting.

It was time to relax a little, so we found a nice Italian wine bar and asked the owner to recommend a wine for us to try.  She bought us three glasses of very nice red wine along with a platter of meat and cheeses.  We enjoyed our wine so much, that we didn’t hesitate when offered a second glass each and it wasn’t until Michael went to pay the bill that he discovered that the wine we had been drinking was ranked among the top 10% of the world.  No wonder we had enjoyed it so much!

Amber was feeling better, so she met us for dinner at Gasthaus Zu den 3 Hacken, a lovely traditional Viennese restaurant that Michael and I had visited on one of our previous stays.  It was a nice way to end our time in Vienna.

Once more it was time to say goodbye to James and Amber as they were flying home and we were returning to Munich.  They had given us a wonderful Christmas together and a memorable holiday full of fun.  It was a shame that we couldn’t give them a white Christmas however I hope that they enjoyed their time with us.  We will see them again at the end of January, so that is something to look forward to.  Michael and I had a peaceful train journey as far as Saltzburg, when 4 very loud Australians boarded our carriage.  I tried to bury my head in my crossword book but it was hard to ignore them as they sat themselves three rows apart and carried on their conversation by yelling across to each other.  I should point out at this stage that they were not young people – far from it – they were grey nomads older than Michael and I!  Despite Michael’s best efforts to look absorbed in his book, they engaged first him in their conversation and then it wasn’t long until I was dragged in as well.  They volunteered the information that they were from Western Australia and Michael pleasantly told them that his father was from Bunbury.  They then announced that Bunbury was the ice capital of Western Australia!  Michael’s face was priceless and I never did get to finish my crossword.

We alighted in Munich and discovered that it had been snowing.  Poor Amber, she had wanted to see the snow so much, and now here we were with snow and she was back in London.  We lost no time dropping our bags off and then headed out to dinner at Wirtshaus Zum Straubinger.  Michael had made a reservation when we were there with James and Amber, to ensure that he didn’t miss out on one final pork extravaganza.  We both ordered the schweinshaxe and it was absolutely delicious.  I have decided though that we will have a meat detox when we return to Dublin.

A Rainy Night In Paris

Our train was slightly late leaving Munich so we unfortunately missed our connection at Mannheim.  Not to worry, the ever efficient German station staff soon has us booked on a train to Paris, changing at Karlsruhe .  The result was that we arrived in Paris an hour later than we had originally intended however that didn’t worry us, as we had nothing planned.  We had our usual walk around and finished up with dinner at one of our favourite bistros along the canal.

The next day I saw a side of Paris that I normally don’t see, shops, or more accurately, the inside of shops!  Michael has always had an intense dislike of shopping however he seemed to undergo a transformation of sorts and actually ventured inside.  We spent a lovely morning visiting various stores and of course, Galeries Lafayette.  



 The Christmas tree under the magnificent lead light dome was made up of huge balloons and on the hour, music played, and other balloons danced up and down.  It was such a glorious sight and it was lovely to stand there just watching the colourful display. We also walked the streets and saw long queues at the various patisseries as people waited patiently in line for their pastries and cakes for their New Year celebrations.  The shops started to close up at around 2.00pm and gradually the streets became deserted as everyone headed home to get ready for the evening.  Michael and I celebrated the New Year with dinner at a traditional French restaurant, Le Plomb Du Cantal, accompanied by a bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  We took a short walk after dinner and saw that the crowds had returned to the streets.  We were beyond staying up until midnight though, and so headed back to our hotel long before the clock struck midnight. 

2018 got off to a soggy start, with torrential rain.  We braved the downpour and walked around for a while before admitting defeat and heading back to our hotel to relax and read for the afternoon.  We really couldn’t complain, as this was the first time on our trip that the weather had interfered with our movements.  The rain stopped by the evening to allow us to find a nice bistro for our dinner.

Our remaining time in Paris was spent shopping (still a novel experience for me).  This presented me with a problem when I went to close my suitcase.  Did I really need to buy that enormous canister of Kusmi tea? Yes, yes I did!  After much grunting, sweating and cursing, I finally managed to close the case and we were on our way to the airport.  Time had gone so quickly but we had such a lovely time.  I wonder where we will be this time next year?  

Night Train to Munich

We experienced another comfortable train journey from Strasbourg to Munich where more Christmas markets awaited us.  There were a number of different markets to experience, from the traditional Christkindlmarkt in front of the town hall to various others scattered throughout the city.  


 Dinner that evening was at Michael’s second favourite restaurant in Munich, Haxnbauer.  This was to be James’ first experience of Bavarian cuisine, so Michael went all out and ordered a huge meat platter for the two of them to share, consisting of grilled sausages, liver dumplings, pork knuckle, veal knuckle and grilled smoked pork belly, all served with sauerkraut, potato dumplings and gravy.  I think James was impressed, if a little overwhelmed.

Yes they are on surf boards

The next day we walked out to the English Garden to visit the Christmas market held in the beer garden of the Chinese Tower. I think that this was my favourite market in Munich, as it was full of families enjoying the day and the garden itself is always a pleasure to see.  There was a curling rink set up and we spent a while watching the men play the game whilst balancing their beer and cigarettes.  We also took a walk to the Mediaeval Market where we enjoyed a flaming cup of mulled wine.

No trip to Munich would be complete without a visit to the historic Hofbrauhaus and we popped in, intending to just have a drink.  The beer hall was packed to the rafters with people adorned in the red jumpers of the Munich football club, as a game was due to be played that evening. 



We found a table in one of the back rooms and enjoyed a beer when all at once, the crowd seemed to rise as one, and they headed out the door, as obviously the game was due to start.  We took advantage of the exodus and took up a seat in the main hall and decided to remain for our dinner and enjoy the music of the oompah band and soak up the atmosphere of the happy Bavarians.  I think it would be impossible to be unhappy surrounded by so many people enjoying themselves.  Even young children are given small glasses of beer to drink with their families (I assume it is watered down with lemonade).

James and Amber had a day to themselves, so Michael and I re-visited some our favourite places in Munich.  We made sure that we viewed the chiming of the Astronomical Clock (I don’t think I would ever get tired of watching the clock, even if I lived in Munich).  We also had a good look around the Viktualienmarkt, seeing all of the fresh produce, before meeting up with Amber and James for dinner at Michael’s favourite restaurant in Munich, Wirsthaus Zum Straubinger.  The meat platter that James and Michael shared was enough to turn a person vegetarian!

We spent our final day with more wanderings and later dining at a lovely Thai restaurant in the evening called Longgrain.  Michael and I particularly appreciated the food, as we have yet to find a good Thai restaurant in Dublin  (I was also thankful for a rest from all of the meat I had been consuming).  

My House In Budapest

We took another comfortable train journey, this time from Munich to Budapest, arriving late in the evening.  A short walk from the station took us to our hotel where the most magnificent surprise awaited us. 




Amber had organised the accommodation for our stay in the wonderful Hotel Nemzeti and we were instantly taken with the magnificent historic surroundings including the original staircase and lead glass ceiling. The surprises kept coming when we were presented with the keys to our very own suite and we were stunned by the size and beauty of our rooms, including an enormous bathroom with a rain shower.  It was all very luxurious and totally unexpected however very much appreciated and I lost no time settling into our home for the next three nights.

We started the following day with a leisurely buffet breakfast in the hotel dining room.  There was an enormous array of foods to chose from with even a chocolate fountain and sparkling wine on offer (I was remarkably restrained and held myself back from the wine, as I wanted to be able to enjoy the sights).  





 We had a lovely day wandering the streets and visiting the Christmas markets.  The items for sale at the markets were very different to what we had seen in Germany and France, with beautiful handcrafts and the most amazing array of food.  The city itself is looking glorious, with much restoration having taken place since we were last there.  

 I think that in another ten years time, Budapest will rival Vienna in terms of beauty and the magnificence of the architecture.  James had booked dinner for all of us at a lovely restaurant, however I suggested that as it was Christmas Eve, they might prefer to dine alone.   They jumped at the chance and headed out together whilst Michael and I took the opportunity for a night walk around the city in search of somewhere to eat.  Unfortunately for us, the only place that we could find open was a kebab shop, so that was what we had – kebab and chips.

Christmas Day dawned, and we met at the hotel restaurant for b  This time there was no holding back from the sparkling wine (it was Christmas, after all).  Next, it was time for presents, and we adjourned to our suite to spend a fun time, sharing our gifts.  It was a lovely way to spend Christmas morning.

It wasn’t a white Christmas – in fact it was unseasonably warm and sunny.  We took advantage of the sunshine and walked over the Chain Bridge and took a ride up the funicular to the castle and Fisherman’s Bastion.  The view from the top was magnificent and there were many Hungarians wandering about, enjoying the warm day.  

Our Christmas dinner was a real treat, organised for us by James.  The restaurant was Costes, and after some initial confusion (we walked to the wrong restaurant and then had to find a taxi to take us to the correct one), we walked into a beautiful building adorned with a massive chandelier. The restaurant itself was quite lovely and the degustation menu was fantastic.  Plate after plate kept arriving, with each one more delicious than the one before. 


It really was a most memorable Christmas meal.  We finished the night back in our suite, playing Heads Up, a really fun game that Amber had downloaded the App for.  It is like charades, and I think that I will always remember Amber trying to think of a way to act out coral and a barnacle!  What a lovely Christmas! 

A Morning in Paris

Michael and I took our first non budget airline flight in a long time, choosing to fly Aer Lingus to Paris instead of our usual carrier, Ryan Air.  Oh, the luxury!  We didn’t have to brave the weather on the tarmac to climb the stairs to board the plane.  No, we walked along a covered walkway and boarded the plane without getting blown about.  We found our seats, and behold – a seat pocket! I hadn’t seen one of those in years! (It is the little things that you notice and appreciate).  The flight was smooth and a quick train ride later we were in the heart of Paris.  We performed our usual routine of checking in, dumping our bags and setting off to explore.

We soon found one of the new hipster style cafes, which have sprung up all over Paris and enjoyed a nice cup of coffee.  It is funny to think that on our first trip to France in 2012, we actually gave up drinking coffee as we couldn’t find a decent cup anywhere, and now we are spoilt for choice.  Dinner that evening was at a nearby bistro where the waitress tried her best to correct our appalling pronunciation of the dishes on the menu.  I think that we gave her a laugh or two.

The next morning, we were up early and took our places at the counter of another nearby bistro to join the locals for a croissant and a café au lait.  It is always interesting to watch people go about their business.  We then headed out to have a walk around the familiar streets of the city, enjoying the sunshine and the sights.  Finally it was time to head to the railway station where we were to meet James and Amber.  It was great to see them again, and after brief greetings, it was time for us all to board the train for the start of our holiday together.

The Stones of Strasbourg

Where better to experience the magic of the festive season, but Strasbourg, home to one of the oldest Christmas markets in Europe.  We dropped our bags off at our hotel, rugged up nice and warm and then headed out to explore the ancient city.  Security had been tightened considerably since our last visit, with all pedestrians having to pass through checkpoints on the bridges and handbags and backpacks searched and large lorries were parked across the roads preventing anyone from driving into the market areas.  The security guard asked Amber and I something in French, and seeing that we didn’t understand, he started to hum the Stripper whilst miming undoing his clothes.  We understood that he wanted us to undo our jackets, which we did.  I was pretty cross with him as we moved off, as I assumed that he was being suggestive to Amber however, I soon found out that Michael and James had been given the Stripper routine as well!

It wasn’t long before we were in the beautiful old city, surrounded by twinkling lights and enjoying browsing the many, many stalls with mulled wines in our hands.  The street decorations were amazing and it was magical wandering the streets and seeing everyone enjoying themselves, particularly the children.  Dinner that night was at Caveau Gurtlerhoft a traditional restaurant housed in cellars more than 600 years old.  The meal was delicious, with Michael especially enjoying his 3 meats hot pot.

The following day was spent exploring the city and markets and revisiting the wonderful Cathedral.  We found a lovely wine bar, Black and Wine, and spent some time sampling the local produce of the region before dining a wonderful French restaurant, L’Epicerie.  Strasbourg remains firmly on my list of favourite European cities to visit whether in the summertime or winter.