Monday 18 September 2017

A Wife in London




Michael was in for a very busy week at work and as he planned on working late each night and over the weekend, he suggested that I head over to London for the week.  I couldn’t book my flights quick enough!  I arrived at James and Amber’s just in time for dinner and we had a lovely evening catching up.

I was up early the next morning as I was off to the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich to undertake a tour of the Painted Hall.  The magnificent ceiling is presently undergoing a massive restoration project, and for a limited time you can ascend a giant scaffold 60 feet in the air to view up close The Triumph of Peace and Liberty over Tyranny.  We donned our high visibility vests and hard hats and, after a safety briefing from our guide, we climbed the 70 steps to the observation deck, where we were within 2 feet of the actual ceiling.  It was incredible seeing the details of the paintings from such close quarters and we were given large, hand held mirrors, so that we could view the works without twisting our necks.  There are over 200 allegorical, mythological and historical characters depicted over 40,000 square feet.  Our guide was informative and enthusiastically pointed out various highlights of Sir James Thornhill’s masterpiece.  We were then given time to ourselves to wander around and look closely at whatever interested us most.  It was a remarkable experience and I really hope that one day I can return and see the completed restoration.

Lunch was next on the agenda, so I headed over to the historic Greenwich Market for a quick bite and a look at the various stalls.  Then it was off to do something that I have wanted to for some time – walk the Greenwich foot tunnel.  This tunnel crosses beneath the River Thames linking Greenwich with the Isle of Dogs.  The tunnel opened in 1902 and the entrance shafts at each end are beneath glazed domes.  I descended a giant, spiral staircase and then walked the length of the tunnel, marvelling at the fact that I was actually under the River Thames.  There is one small section of the tunnel which is considerably narrower than the rest, as that section was damaged by bombs during the Second World War and the repair works included a thick steel and concrete lining.  It certainly was a different way to access the other side of the Thames.  I then walked the stretch of the river between the Isle of Dogs and Tower Bridge.  I always enjoy walking along the Thames as there is so much to see along the way and I can indulge in my favourite fantasy of “if I win the lottery, where would I chose to live”.  There are so many lovely apartments lining the Thames and I think it must be marvellous to live overlooking the river.  I enjoyed my walk so much that I continued walking all the way back to Angel.


James had booked dinner at Ottolenghi in Islington however he made a mistake, and had actually booked the restaurant for the following evening.  It wasn’t really a problem as there are many other restaurants within easy walking distance.  We decided on a lovely Italian restaurant and the three of us enjoyed a relaxing evening.

I had another interesting tour booked for the next day – the Houses of Parliament.  I navigated my way through the first police check, where I was asked where I was from and issued with my security lanyard and visitor pass.  Next stop was to have my handbag searched.  Now, for Christmas Michael gave me a beautiful antique gold harp necklace inlaid with a sliver of Connemara Marble and it draws compliments whenever I wear it.  The police officer conducting my bag search commented that she liked my necklace.  I smiled, thanked her and puffed my chest out a little.  Then she said -“it’s the Guinness symbol, innit?”  My chest quickly deflated!  Then it was through the final security check before collecting my audio tour.  The tour began in Westminster Hall, a vast area with a magnificent roof lined with oak timbers.  There were a number of plaques along the floor commemorating various lyings-in-state of past Sovereigns and others, such as Sir Winston Churchill and other plaques commemorating foreign leaders who have addressed the parliament there, most notably Nelson Mandela.  It is considered a rare privilege for a foreign leader to be allowed to address both houses in Westminster Hall, hence the controversy when Donald Trump was invited for a state visit.  I then moved through into St Stephen’s Hall where statues of famous parliamentarians including Robert Walpole and William Pitt faced each other on either side of the wall.  There were also beautiful stained glass windows, mosaics and paintings throughout.  It really was quite lovely.  Photographs are only permitted in Westminster Hall and Stephen’s Hall.  The next area was the Central Lobby, which is very familiar as this is where television political reporters always interview the politicians.  It was a real thrill to continue the rest of the tour through the lavishly decorated Lords Chamber with its Royal Throne, Prince’s Chamber, Royal Gallery where state receptions are held, and of course to see the Robing Room where the Queen puts on the Imperial State Crown and her ceremonial robes before making her way to the House of Lords.  Then it was through to the Members’ Lobby where I saw the damage to one of the doors between the Member’s Lobby and the Commons Chamber caused by the Gentleman Usher of the Black Rod knocking three times to deliver his summons to the State Opening of Parliament and the statues of Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George, each with one shiny foot where MPs touch them for luck.  The tour finished in the Commons Chamber, which was by far the plainest room.  The tour was utterly fantastic and I would love to visit again, as it was impossible to take in all of the history and splendour on display. 
 
Lunch was a quick bite in the Houses of Parliament café before I caught the train to the Natural History Museum.  James and Amber had kindly given me a ticket to the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition.  I had to queue for about half an hour to gain entry to the museum, as it was school holidays.  Once I was admitted and had the obligatory bag check, I made my way to the exhibition, which was blissfully crowd-free.  The photos were truly astonishing in their varied subject matter and clarity.  My favourite photograph was of an urban fox cheekily peeking over a wall.  I enjoyed my time there so much that I actually walked back through the exhibition to view all of the photographs a second time.

Amber was meeting a friend for dinner so James and I had a mother and son evening planned.  We started with dinner at my favourite Afghan restaurant, which was delicious as always.  Next was a visit to the cinema.  James and I are both Stephen King fans and as we have both read the Dark Tower series of books it was only natural that we should go and see The Dark Tower.  The best that we could say was that it was interesting as it had elements of the books however it was puzzling as to what was included in the film and what was omitted.  The actors were very good in their roles and I am glad that I saw the movie.  We followed the movie with a gelato flower cone – delicious.

The next morning I farewelled James as he and Amber were off to Turkey for the long weekend.  Once again I wasn’t too sad saying goodbye as all being well, we will see them again at Christmas.  I made my way to Buckingham Palace as I had ticket to view the State Rooms again.  I had retained my ticket from last year’s visit as it entitles you to free re-admission for a year.  I had wanted to visit again as there was a special exhibition of official gifts presented to Her Majesty during the past 65 years.  There were many lavish and sometimes odd gifts on display including a portrait of Her Majesty woven from banana leaves and a 100ft totem pole.  One wonders what the Duke of Edinburgh had to say about some of the gifts!  There was also a tribute to Diana, Princess of Wales in a special display in the Music Room.  The centrepiece was Diana’s desk from Kensington Palace with personal objects selected by Princes William and Harry such as her ballet shoes and cassettes.  It was only a small display however it was strangely moving.  I spent the rest of my time at the Palace looking carefully at the beautiful artworks and furnishings and listening to the very interesting and informative audio guide.  I finished the tour sitting in the sunshine in the garden enjoying an ice cream.  It was a little disconcerting then to learn that only 8 hours later there was an attempted attack on police outside the palace. A man drove his car at a police van and then lunged for a 4ft sword that he had hidden in his car.  I am not sure what he was trying to achieve by attacking such a heavily secured area and thankfully the police only received minor injuries.
In the afternoon, I took a walk to the Supreme Court in Parliament Square, as they were having an open day.  The building itself is very grand and was completed in 1913 and was used by Middlesex County Council for their administration and council meetings.  When the building was chosen as the home for the Supreme Court, a major renovation operation took place to restore the building to its former grandeur.  A relief frieze runs around the outside depicting historical scenes including King John handing the Magna Carta to the barons at Runnymede.  Inside, after passing through security, I was able to view the impressive triple height library and access one of the Courtrooms.  There was also a permanent exhibition giving an insight into the work and history of the Supreme Court.  It was all very interesting.
It was time to head home, and with the house to myself, I started to binge watch The Crown on James and Amber’s Netflix.  I thought it was very good particularly John Lithgow’s portrayal of Winston Churchill.  Now I just have to wrangle another invitation to stay at James and Amber’s so that I can see the second series!

The weekend is always my favourite time in London, as I get to visit the different markets.  I started on Saturday with a visit to the Broadway Market.  I love the walk along the canal to get there, although I must have enjoyed my walk a little too much as I missed the turnoff and kept walking, not realising my mistake until I had gone way past it.  I doubled back and enjoyed looking at all the food stalls while sipping my coffee.  It is a great market and I love the relaxed vibe of young people enjoying themselves with dogs and children everywhere.  I started to get very hot, as I had only packed warm clothes for my visit, so I decided to walk back along the canal to Angel to buy some t-shirts.  I called into Marks and Spencer (I love that store), selected a few tops and returned home to change.  I was really hot by now and was convinced that the temperature must be over 30 degrees.  I was amazed to find upon checking the weather that it was only 24.  I really am going to have trouble readjusting to Australian weather when I return home!
Graffiti in Angel
Fancy a hot tub on the canal?
















Sunday was Columbia Road Flower Market day.  It doesn’t matter how many times I visit that market as I always find something different to see.  I went nice and early so it wasn’t too crowded and it was lovely to see all the fresh flowers and listen to the banter of the market-stall holders.  Next stop was Victoria Park to see the market there.  This market has grown since my last visit, and as it was such a lovely day, there were people everywhere enjoying the park and market.  I then took a walk into the city to Seven Dials, Covent Garden and wandered the general area.  I have said it before, but time really is a luxury.


Bank Holiday Monday in August means only one thing in London – Notting Hill Carnival.  I was a little unsure whether to go on my own as it was going to be hot (28 degrees) and crowded, however James and Amber convinced me that I would enjoy myself.  I alighted at Queensway Station ready to make my way to the carnival, when I came across Café Diana.  I had read about this café some time ago however I had promptly forgotten about it.  The café is across the road from Kensington Gardens and the walls are decorated with framed photos and press cuttings of the Princess of Wales.  I took a seat and enjoyed a coffee, all the while admiring the many pictures.  Diana used to bring the young princes to the café for breakfast, much to the delight of the owner.  There is even a signed picture of her on the wall. 
 

I followed the moving crowd to the carnival and I have to say, I have never seen so many police officers in one area.  They kept arriving by the coach load and would make their way to their positions in a slow moving conga line, each holding on to the belt of the police person in front of them.  It looked as though the police would outnumber the crowd at one stage, but then the people just kept coming.  I found myself a position on the parade route, and then settled back to watch the dancers, musicians and floats.  The costumes were amazing with sequins and feathers in abundance.  The dancers happily posed for photos with the spectators and it was almost impossible not to join in with the dancing, so loud was the music and so intoxicating was the rhythm.  The air was full of blue smoke from the many jerk chicken vendors and I just had to have a Jamaican patty.  I must have spent a good while people watching and it was lovely to see everyone having such a good time.  I saw no anti social or drunken behaviour, just people of all ages having fun. 
I took a walk around the whole area and it was confronting to come across the horror of the burnt out shell of Grenfell Tower.  We have all seen the terrible news footage of the fire and many photos of the tower shell but nothing can prepare you for actually seeing it.  Police had blocked the main access street to the tower and it was touching to see the number of people who approached the police to shake their hands and pay tribute to the victims.  A minute’s silence was observed at 3.00pm and performers lowered their music and walked respectfully past the area.

I must admit that my party mood evaporated at this point, so I decided to take a walk up to Kensington Palace.  It took me a great deal of time to negotiate my way through the crowd however I eventually emerged unscathed.  I had tried to obtain tickets to see the exhibition Diana: Her Fashion Story, however the exhibition remains fully booked.  I now wanted to see the White Garden, which had been planted with white flowers and foliage in her memory.  The garden is viewed from a public walkway and is really very beautiful.  I then took a walk to the main gate and although the anniversary of her death was still three days away, tributes had already been left and a small crowd gathered to look at the flowers, photographs and hand written notes.  It really is extraordinary to think that 20 years have passed.
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The next day I just had time for a quick tidy up and a final canal walk before it was time to make my way to the airport.  I miss you already London.